Back in January, I sought a challenge. I sought a challenge that was unique in nature. I wanted to do something in my life that people would admire and aspire to. I think ExplOregon was the perfect answer to that call. Seeing the state on a bike and conquering the difficulties strengthened me and fills me with pride. It was an awesome adventure that I will never forget.
It is difficult to gauge which bike ride was the best. I think all of them had their own respective advantages and disadvantages. You have to look at all the rides collectively. ExplOregon started out on Easter Sunday with the wet and windy ride up the Row River Trail. A few other warm-up rides around Spencer's Butte and the Coburg Hills led me to the first big ride. I got that taste of bike touring and I knew that I was set up for the adventure of a lifetime.
My first century ride on the Willamette Valley Bike Route tested me. It was a frustrating marathon, but the relief I had at the end was worth it. I had just rode 100 miles on a bike. It tested my stamina and will. My limits were approached and there were times on that ride when I asked myself, "Why am I doing this? This is crazy!" But then I appreciated the sheer magnitude of the task in front of me. Criss-Crossing the back roads of an area of Oregon that I thought I knew like the back-of-my-hand on a primitive form of transportation gave me the appreciation I needed. I also learned the thrill of completing the task by seeing the welcoming sights of Eugene and the end of the ride.
When I got to the train station in Portland, the attendants there seemed aghast that I would ride my bike all the way to Multnomah Falls. I was surprised at this. I mean, haven't a lot of people done that? Apparently not. But this trail-blazing attitude took me to the Columbia River Gorge and to Multnomah Falls. I had never been to the Columbia River Gorge before this, but the first experience on a bike made it that much better.
Then the break. Life kind of got in the way. I didn't ride my bike for weeks and lost sight of the objectives. My bike stood in my apartment begging me to ride it. It was begging me to get on the computer and plan some sort of exotic trip to the far corners of the state. I neglected it and pushed forward with all of the stuff that was going on. Once I got that out of the way, I tackled probably the most grandiose ride of them all.
Making the climb up McKenzie Pass reminded me of the struggle and how greatness took effort. After climbing to over a mile high in the sky, I marveled at the accomplishment. When I got to the top of the mountain, I had a fist pump and a huge smile. I had conquered the Cascade Range. I went up and over the same mountain range that challenged the pioneers and settlers. It showed me that I can confront nature and, on my bike, beat back the obstacles.
I was on a roll. My next challenge was the Oregon Coast. I thought this ride would be super hard, but with the great tailwind behind me, I climbed the headlands with no problem. I was very familiar with this stretch of Highway 101, but being on a bike made things so much more personal. I have a lot more respect for the road itself and the beauty that is the Oregon Coast. I was inspired by that ride to push the limits of my physical abilities and, in the future, stretch that ride into a multi-day affair.
But I was set up for disappointment. The Springwater Corridor was a nice ride, sure, but the sense of accomplishment just wasn't there. Maybe it was intermingling with all of the spandex bandidos, but I just left that ride longing for more. On paper it seemed like a fun ride. Weaving through Southwest Portland on an old railroad grade. But when I was riding, I noticed so many other people doing that ride, so the allure of the "trailblazing ride" wasn't there.
I needed to get back to the ExplOregon roots. Finding what made the state so ideal. The Badlands ride sure did it. The isolation and desolation I experience reaffirmed the pledge I made to do something great. I sought the far corner and rode my bike to it. The desert scenery was incredible and the views were extraordinary.
And then what a way to end it. The hardest bike ride in America around Crater Lake. It took all the lessons I had learned from the previous ten rides to succeed. Crater Lake is Oregon's jewel, and I experienced in a way that was more personal than a car. I had read in numerous bike touring books that the ride on the Rim Drive around Crater Lake was the hardest in America. I can say that I agree with that. Despite that, it was totally worth it.
The final stats are incredible. I rode almost 500 total miles. I was in the saddle for over 40 hours. I experienced weather conditions ranging from brutally hot to shivering cold. Rain, snow, and sun tested me. I enjoyed brisk tailwinds and fought brutal headwinds.
Sure, the physical aspects of all of this are apparent, but did I learn anything? Of course I did. I learned how to be a bike tourist carrying all your necessary provisions on a two-wheeled transport. I learned a lot on how to fix my bike on the fly and in the workshop. With all the riding, I can now gauge ow the bike is riding. Is there something wrong? Or is it smooth sailing? I also learned a lot about what makes a good bike route and analyzing maps critically.
So, what's next? That's a good question. I have thought a lot how to take this hobby to the next level. Multi-day trips would be fun, but do I have the time to do them? Logistically they can present a challenge, so I don't know what to do.
It has been a lot of fun writing about everything I have done on this blog. I thank all of you for reading it and offering your support!
ExplOregon by Bike
Biking Adventures Across the Beaver State
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Thursday, October 13, 2011
ExplOregon Ride 11: Crater Lake
View Larger Map
Determination and will-power make the best bike riders. Sure, physical ability has a lot to do with riding a bike, but it is the self-determination inside of you that makes riding a bike such a great activity. Yesterday, I conquered the, arguably, hardest bike ride in America. The 33-mile Rim Drive around Crater Lake in Crater Lake National Park is replete with steep hills, relentless headwinds, bitter temperatures, and some of the best scenery in the world. Established as a National Park in 1902, Crater Lake National Park is Oregon's only National Park. It is the third oldest National Park in the United States. It has inspired millions of people since then and attracted serious bicycle riders for years.
Crater Lake is actually formed from the collapse of a volcano. Mount Mazama exploded about 10,000 years ago in a massive eruption. After blowing it's top, the caldera collapsed in on itself creating the crater. And, since then, precipitation from rain and snowfall has filled the lake to its current capacity making it the deepest lake in the United States at almost 2,000 feet. No streams run or out of the caldera. It is all snowmelt and rain.
Aside from the geologic interests, most people are drawn to the lake because of the deep, azure blue color the lake shows. Because of heavy reflection and the lights refracting off the depths, Crater Lake appears a deep, deep blue color when viewed. Even with the cloudy day, the lake was so blue that, at times, I couldn't look directly at it.
Bundled up and ready to ride at the North Junction |
After the first steep climb of around a mile or so, the road hugged the top of the caldera offering up some spectacular views of the lake, Wizard Island and the sheer cliffs that ring the lake. It was also the first long downhill I had, so I was able to relax a little and take in the views. But my enjoyment wouldn't last.
View from Cleetwood Cove |
I enjoyed some downhill riding all the way to the Phantom Ship overlook. The Phantom Ship is one of only two islands in Crater Lake. This rock formation may look small, but in reality it is over 13-stories tall. As I was riding on the north rim, I could see it shilloutte admist the fog over the lake. The term "phantom" definitely could be used to describe the island.
I looped around some more horshoe climbs before a descent into the Rim Village. The location of the Park Headquarters was pretty barren. October is not exactly tourist season in the park, which meant I pretty much had the road to myself. I saw maybe a dozen or so cars, and we pretty much played tag around the lake. I got familiar with some of the cars on the road and it was a good distraction to know how far along the lake I was.
View from the Sinnot Memorial Overlook |
I wheeled around the few remaining cliffs back to the North Junction. I had completed the 33-mile ride, but I felt I had earned a few minutes of solid downhill running after all the hills I had climbed. I decided to jump on the access road back to the entrance of the park. Essentially 9 miles of all downhill riding through the Pumice Desert was the break that I was needing.
Pumice Desert |
I had read in Bike Touring magazines and internet forums that this was the hardest bike ride in the United States. I have to agree with that. This was physically demanding to the extreme and pushed my willpower to the limit. It may have been easier if I had rode in July or August, but the experience I had this past weekend really stands alone. I confronted mother nature and rode my bike at the top of the world and succeeded.
ExplOregon by Bike Ride 11: Crater Lake Summary
Total Miles for Ride- 33.0 miles
Total Time on Bike-4.5 hours
Weather- Low to Mid-30's with Cloud Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon- 511.2 miles
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 44.5 hours
Sunday, October 2, 2011
Weather Permitting
I had planned to ride the Rim Drive at Crater Lake tomorrow, but the forecast is calling for gusty winds and 1 to 2 inches of snow to fall with temperatures in the mid-20's. Because of this, I have postponed the ride until next week. Extended forecasts call for sunny, but cold conditions in the low-40's.
Sunday, September 18, 2011
ExplOregon Ride 10 : The Oregon Badlands
View Larger Map
The starkness of this state continues to astound me. If it isn't sweeping beaches, it's thick pine forests. But this ride I did yesterday showed me a part of the state that is forgotten by a lot of outsiders, but a well-known secret amongst residents
My ride started out in the bustling city of Bend. This city of over 80,000 used to be a small outpost in Central Oregon. I can actually remember the day not too long ago when Bend was this small, little community. But with an average of 300 days of sunshine and land to build on, Bend exploded with the snowbird population and has swelled to be one of the largest cities in Oregon and certainly the largest east of the Cascades. I parked my car right in the middle of Downtown on a busy Saturday night. The bars and small restaurants that lined Wall Street were packed and hopping. I had an inclination to duck into one of the smaller watering holes for a beer before the ride, but I really wanted to get on the road.
Downtown Bend in front of the Tower Theater |
Dodds Road straddles the western border of the Oregon Badlands. The Oregon Badlands is a federally-designated Wilderness area just east of Bend in the High Desert. An expansive area of protected desert habitat, the Badlands were formed millions of years ago through geologic uplift and lava flows. Nowadays, lava rock outcrops and undulating terrain support dry, desert plant life and hard-scrabble wildlife. You have to be tough to live out here as the winds can whip up to 30 or 40 mph and the temperatures in summer can climb to nearly 115 degrees while dropping to below freezing. Precipitation is few and far between as the little water that does fall, mostly as snow in winter, is channeled and preserved. Still, there are some hearty ranchers and farmers who have adapted to life out here and made a living.
The Oregon Badlands |
After Dodds Road, I made a right-turn to the tiny settlement of Alfalfa. Supporting only a Community Hall and a small general store, Alfalfa is essentially a wide spot in the road. I did some research on Wikipedia and found that Alfalfa used to have a one-room schoolhouse and post office until the 1980's, but those have all gone away. As the sun was setting, the windswept village quickly turned dark and I turned back to the west towards Bend.
Alfalfa Community Hall |
Sunset over the Badlands with the Cascades in the background |
I got what I wanted out of the ride. I saw another side of the state that only adds to the ExplOregon experience. But I am tired and have decided to do one more ride. One more ride that defines Oregon. The ride is a simple one to guess: Crater Lake. A ride along the Rim Drive will close out ExplOregon. I think I might go here in a couple weeks, so stay tuned.
ExplOregon by Bike Ride 10: The Oregon Badlands Summary
Total Miles for Ride- 34.7 miles
Total Time on Bike-2.5 hours
Weather- High 50's to low 60's with Cloudy Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon- 478.2 miles
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 40.5 hours
Monday, August 22, 2011
ExplOregon Ride 9: Springwater Corridor
View Larger Map
As the summer winds down, ExplOregon is heating up. The second ride in two weeks had me traveling up to the Rose City for a trip along the 23-mile long Springwater Corridor Trail. Coupled with a trip to the zoo and some baseball, this ride was part of a larger trip up to Portland. It was a lot of fun and offered another glimpse into the state.
My girlfriend and I started our ride at Union Station on the outskirts of downtown Portland. We crossed the massive Steel Bridge over the Willamette River to the Eastside of Portland. The Steel Bridge carries not only bike and pedestrians, it carries four lanes of auto traffic, the MAX light rail line and the main north-south line of the Union Pacific into Union Station. It is one of the busiest multi-modal bridges in the world, which is extraordinary considering that it was built in1912.
After crossing to the Eastside, we made our way south along the Vera Katz Esplanade. This floating walkway offers up an amazing panorama of downtown Portland. We had to dodge, however, the participants of a triathalon who were running right at us. This made for some slow going, but with the incredible vista, it was well-worth the stop-and-go traffic.
The Portland Skyline |
At the beginning of the trail |
This particular day we decided to ride was the same day as the Portland Century ride. As a result, we had to share the trail with hundreds of "spandex bandidos." Who are they, you might ask? They are the riders on $4,000 bikes wearing all the spandex. I am not one as I prefer to wear shorts and a tank top on all my rides, but these riders are of the racing and deathly serious type. They tend to take up the whole trail, come up behind you without giving a verbal warning, and go way too fast. I would much rather fight a brutal headwind or climb the steepest hill than deal with these characters.
We reached the Linneman Station around milepost 18 after about three hours on the trail. My girlfriend stopped to rest at the station while I decided to continue the final push into Boring. Surprisingly, about two miles before Boring, the pavement on the trail ended. A dirt path continued, likely to Boring, but I was puzzled as to why the pavement stopped so close to the end and in a random place. I thought about continuing down the dirt path (my bike does have fat tires for some limited off-roading), but I kind of had enough of this particular ride. I rode back to the station and my girlfriend and I rode north a few blocks to catch a MAX light rail train back into Portland.
I wanted to get a Portland bike ride in for ExplOregon. I thought this would do it, but I disagree. Sure, this ride adds to the allure of ExplOregon, but if I wanted a Portland ride, I should've stuck with the Esplanade and Bike Boulevards. I would've gotten a better taste of the city, maybe ridden a little longer in mileage and seen a heck of a lot more.
I'm taking next weekend off. I'm re-gathering myself and taking a breath. These last two rides have exhausted me and my psyche is taxed. I need a weekend where I do nothing and relax.
ExplOregon by Bike Ride 9: Springwater Corridor Summary
Total Miles for Ride-20.9 miles
Total Time on Bike- 3 hours
Weather-Mid 80's with Clear Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon- 443.5 miles
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 38 hours
Sunday, August 14, 2011
ExplOregon Ride 8: The Oregon Coast
View Larger Map
What is the crown jewel of Oregon? Is it our fertile valleys, harsh deserts, towering mountains, thick forests, or pristine coastline? ExplOregon sets out to find this out. What makes Oregon so great? The past few rides around this state have showed me that the natural beauty is a spectacle in contrast, and yesterday's ride showed me a side of this state that I have seen so much from a car.
The Oregon Coast is dominated by it's roughness and sheer beauty. While it certainly has its share of sandy beaches, the Oregon Coast primary features are the towering cliffs and sheer headlands that dominate hard rocks formed by millions of years of pounding and relentless surf. I set out to ride a potion of this beautiful stretch of land from the bustling town of Newport to the cozy town of Florence.
Getting ready to ride |
Old Town Florence |
Sign just before crossing the Yaquina Bay Bridge |
After speeding through the samll towns of Seal Rock and Waldport, I reached the halfway point in Yachats. Pronounced Ya-Haats, this tourist town was where I was supposed to meet my support car for lunch. However, I made such good time that I actually outpaced my support car. It took me only an hour and fifteen minutes to go the twenty odd miles to Yachats. That tells you just how gusty the tailwind was.
Heceta Beach |
At the top of the hill is the Cape Creek Bridge and tunnel. I only mention this because all of the bridges along the Oregon Coast were designed by the same man during the Great Depression. They are massive in scale, and I went over two of them when I rode.
Cape Creek Bridge |
Looking down onto Heceta Head and the Lighthouse |
ExplOregon by Bike Ride 8: Oregon Coast Summary
Total Miles for Ride-50.6 miles
Total Time on Bike- 3.5 hours
Weather-Mid 60's with Cloudy Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon- 422.6 miles
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 35 hours
Thursday, July 28, 2011
ExplOregon Ride 7: McKenzie Pass
View Larger Map
It may have been a long layoff, but ExplOregon reawakened in a big way with the epic climb in the Cascades along Highway 242. I have wanted to do this ride for so very long, but it seemed like life had gotten in the way the past few months. Last weekend, however, I got the urge to ride again and I made the climb to the top of the Cascades.
Originally carved as a wagon route, Highway 242 is a windy and narrow road that traverses the central Cascades. Starting just east of McKenzie Bridge off of Highway 126, the road climbs nearly 4,000 vertical feet to the summit of McKenzie Pass. It descends sharply downward to meet up with Highway 126 in the cozy western town of Sisters. Normally closed nine months out of the year, the road had thirty foot snow drifts up on the summit. The road itself didn't even open for vehicular traffic until July 15 because of the deep snow.
The East Portal of Highway 242 in Sisters |
Getting ready to go |
Ranchland west of Sisters with the North and Middle Sisters |
As the switchbacks added up, my body started to agonize. This was my first ride at altitude and a month of just back-and-forth rides to Eugene were not adequate preparation. As I labored, my breath became short, my legs burned, and I started to have a painful headache. I knew that altitude sickness was oncoming if I didn't pace myself better. I focused on my pedaling rhythm and breathing cadence to conserve my oxygen and energy.
After about five miles of climbing, I burst out into a massive sea of lava at Windy Point. Formed by the eruption of Belknap Crater, this sea of lava dominates the top of McKenzie Pass. It was at this point where the scenery became the antidote for my bodily pain. From my single stationary spot, I could clearly see Mt. Washington, Mt. Jefferson, Mt. Hood, the Three Sisters, Three-Fingered Jack and Belknap Crater. If I still had oxygen after that long climb, the view would have taken it away.The road brought me so close to these massive peaks that I really sensed I could reach out and touch their tops. It was absolutely incredible.
I was still about three miles from the top of the mountain, and I knew that these would be the hardest section of the entire ride. Flanked by massive walls of lava rock, I labored the last climb almost to exhaustion. When I finally reached the summit, I threw out a little fist bump and a huge smile. I had conquered a ride that taxed me emotionally, psychologically and physically. I had also seem the quintessential Oregon that I had always wanted to see. My girlfriend took a picture of me about 50 yards from the top, and I looked worn out and exhausted, but my smile and elation at accomplishment was clearly evident.
The Summit of McKenzie Pass |
The Dee Wright Observatory |
From L to R: The North Sister, Middle Sister and Little Brother |
From L to R: Mt. Washington and Mt. Jefferson |
In a weird ironic turn of events, my girlfriend and I decided to head over to the nearby Belknap Hot Springs after my ride. If it weren't eighty degrees outside, I would have been thrilled at soaking in a hot springs after a ride like that, but on a day like that, it made my condition worse. I soaked for about an hour, but I did not drink nearly enough water to keep up with the extreme temperatures and the preceding work of the bike ride. I got home, drank a huge glass of cold water and took a nap.
This ride was an incredible experience. I am so happy that I undertook this challenge and conquered a mountain. I saw the best Oregon had to offer in a way that not many people have done.
ExplOregon by Bike Ride 7: McKenzie Pass Summary
Total Miles for Ride-36.4
Total Time on Bike- 3 hours
Weather-Mid 80's with Clear Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon-372
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 31.5 hours
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)