ExplOregon Ride 11: Crater Lake

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Determination and will-power make the best bike riders. Sure, physical ability has a lot to do with riding a bike, but it is the  self-determination inside of you that makes riding a bike such a great activity. Yesterday, I conquered the, arguably, hardest bike ride in America. The 33-mile Rim Drive around Crater Lake in Crater Lake National Park is replete with steep hills, relentless headwinds, bitter temperatures, and some of the best scenery in the world. Established as a National Park in 1902, Crater Lake National Park is Oregon's only National Park. It is the third oldest National Park in the United States. It has inspired millions of people since then and attracted serious bicycle riders for years.

Crater Lake is actually formed from the collapse of a volcano. Mount Mazama exploded about 10,000 years ago in a massive eruption. After blowing it's top, the caldera collapsed in on itself creating the crater. And, since then, precipitation from rain and snowfall has filled the lake to its current capacity making it the deepest lake in the United States at almost 2,000 feet. No streams run or out of the caldera. It is all snowmelt and rain.

Aside from the geologic interests, most people are drawn to the lake because of the deep, azure blue color the lake shows. Because of heavy reflection and the lights refracting off the depths, Crater Lake appears a deep, deep blue color when viewed. Even with the cloudy day, the lake was so blue that, at times, I couldn't look directly at it.

Bundled up and ready to ride at the North Junction

I started my ride at the North Junction and proceeded around the lake in a clockwise direction. With the temperature in the mid-30's, I was anxious to get riding and get my blood flowing. However, on the very first hill, I realized I was pedaling at an altitude of almost 8,000 feet. I was winded after the first hill and my legs were already burning after the first mile or so. I had to conserve as much energy as possible because of altitude sickness. I remember the experience up on McKenzie Pass, and I did not want to repeat it.

After the first steep climb of around a mile or so, the road hugged the top of the caldera offering up some spectacular views of the lake, Wizard Island and the sheer cliffs that ring the lake. It was also the first long downhill I had, so I was able to relax a little and take in the views. But my enjoyment wouldn't last.

View from Cleetwood Cove

I then began a nearly 4-mile climb behind the cliffs of the lake to the base of Mt. Scott, which overlooks the lake. The windy Rim Drive offered views of the expansive Eastern Oregon desert, but the constant uphill took it's toll on me. I utilized as many of the pull outs as I could to catch my breath and relief for my legs. It was the most physically demanding task of my life, by far. I thought I would get some relief at the top of the hills, but they were simply openings onto the lake which put me into the crosshairs of a nasty headwind that had to have been approaching 40-50mph. Combine that with the bitter cold, it was not an enjoyable experience, to say the least.

I enjoyed some downhill riding all the way to the Phantom Ship overlook. The Phantom Ship is one of only two islands in Crater Lake. This rock formation may look small, but in reality it is over 13-stories tall. As I was riding on the north rim, I could see it shilloutte admist the fog over the lake. The term "phantom" definitely could be used to describe the island.

I looped around some more horshoe climbs before a descent into the Rim Village. The location of the Park Headquarters was pretty barren. October is not exactly tourist season in the park, which meant I pretty much had the road to myself. I saw maybe a dozen or so cars, and we pretty much played tag around the lake. I got familiar with some of the cars on the road and it was a good distraction to know how far along the lake I was.

View from the Sinnot Memorial Overlook

After the Rim Village, I began the last climb to the Sinnot Memorial Overlook. This is the most famous overlook where most people take pictures of Crater Lake. From here, Wizard Island is clearly visible admist the towering cliffs of the north side. The largest island in Crater Lake, Wizard Island is the result of almost a "hiccup" in the eruption of Mt. Mazama. It is now the dropping off point for the boats that ply the lake in the summer.

I wheeled around the few remaining cliffs back to the North Junction. I had completed the 33-mile ride, but I felt I had earned a few minutes of solid downhill running after all the hills I had climbed. I decided to jump on the access road back to the entrance of the park. Essentially 9 miles of all downhill riding through the Pumice Desert was the break that I was needing.

Pumice Desert

The Pumice Desert is a huge landscape of the north slope of the mountain that is devoid of all plant life. Formed from the lava flow, the pumice doesn't hold in the nutrients to support life. It is a barren and wind swept landscape that put the cap on the ride I was looking for.

I had read in Bike Touring magazines and internet forums that this was the hardest bike ride in the United States. I have to agree with that. This was physically demanding to the extreme and pushed my willpower to the limit. It may have been easier if I had rode in July or August, but the experience I had this past weekend really stands alone. I confronted mother nature and rode my bike at the top of the world and succeeded.

ExplOregon by Bike Ride 11: Crater Lake Summary
Total Miles for Ride- 33.0 miles
Total Time on Bike-4.5 hours
Weather- Low to Mid-30's with Cloud Skies
Miles Traveled Overall in ExplOregon- 511.2 miles
Time Spent on Bike Overall- 44.5 hours